#PTGUI EXPORT SIDE BY SIDE SOFTWARE#
#PTGUI EXPORT SIDE BY SIDE FREE#

If it isn’t level the whole panorama will be off kilter, requiring excessive straightening and cropping in processing, or the horizon will wave up and down in the final stitch, perhaps causing parts of the scene to go missing. It can be tipped up, of course, but not tilted left-right. Or, if your camera lacks that feature, an accessory bubble level clipped into the camera’s hot shoe will work. Then to level the camera itself, I use the electronic level now in most cameras. Most cameras now have an electronic level built in that is handy for ensuring the panorama does not end up tilted. It eliminates all the fussing with trial-and-error adjustments of the length of each tripod leg. As I show above, this specialized ball head goes under the usual tripod head and makes it easy to level the main head. Though not a necessity, I find a levelling base a huge convenience. However, in most nightscapes our scene content is far enough away that parallax simply isn’t an issue. Parallax shift is certainly a concern when shooting interiors or any scenes with prominent content close to the camera. These rotate the camera around the so-called “nodal point” inside the lens, avoiding parallax shifts that can make it difficult to align and stitch adjacent frames. What you don’t need is a special, and often costly, panorama head. This allows you to move the camera at a correct and consistent angle from segment to segment. The tripod head can be either a ball head or a three-axis head, but it should have a horizontal axis marked with a degree scale. The tripod accessories here are by Acratech. An L-bracket allows the camera to rotate directly above the vertical axis, handy when shooting in portrait mode, as here with a 15mm full-frame fish-eye lens, one option for horizon-to-zenith panoramas.

Here it sits on a levelling head with its own bubble level that makes it easy to level the camera. Pano GearĪ tripod head with a scale marked in degrees is essential. For Milky Way scenes you need a fast lens and a solid tripod, but any good DSLR or mirrorless camera will suffice. Nightscape panoramas don’t require any more equipment than what you likely already own for shooting the night sky. PART 1 - SHOOTING What Equipment Do You Need?

#PTGUI EXPORT SIDE BY SIDE SOFTWARE#

What software works best depends on the number of segments in your panorama, or even on the focal length of the lens you used. Here, I’ll step through techniques for simple to more complex panoramas, dealing first with essential shooting methods, then reviewing the workflows I use for processing and stitching panoramas. My tutorial complements the much more extensive information I provide in my eBook, at right. “Panos” can be easy to shoot, but stitching them together can present challenges. I reinstalled the software.Panoramas featuring the arch of the Milky Way have become the icons of dark sky locations. I made no changes to anything expect the following. Yesterday I tried it again and after the first go at it was perfect. Hugin kept doubling up the play set at the right side of the image. PTGui worked great on this one but it messed up the inside panos. I tried for hours using Hugin and could not make this image work. After 8 hours I managed to get all 2 out of 4 usable panos with Hugin. I could not make one work well for all four panos. A different pano software did the opposite. It seemed one worked well on set of images it did not work well on another set. I would have purchased one but I had 4 panos to do. It would eject an image or flip some upside down.

#PTGUI EXPORT SIDE BY SIDE FREE#

Photobucket sends ads instead of embedding photos from their free galleries.Ĭlick the link (if available) below to see the image in a gallery page.

PHOTOBUCKET EMBEDDING IS DISABLED BY THIS MEMBER.

Ptgui export side by side